How Are People Going To Dispose Of Their Trash, Garbage, And Waste After TSHTF?

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So imagine this – the (systemic) systems around you have come to a halt – those which most people count on to always be there and functioning for us – including the trash collection that stops by your house once-a-week to collect your garbage and trash.

Let’s say that it all stops. While life must go on and you must make do, how will you dispose of the trash and garbage which you may be producing while you continue to survive?

It’s a hypothetical question, and is intended to encourage you to think about the subject.

Chime in with your comments and opinions.
Here are a few thoughts…

For one thing, given that ‘modern’ living involves a tremendous amount of trash, waste, and ‘throw-away’ habits – I suspect that if times get tough – fewer things will be thrown out (the Great Depression anyone?). It involves one’s definition of ‘trash’.

In a SHTF world, there will be little consumerism, and people will be keeping anything they get their hands on. These things may come in handy for your own self or they may be used for barter and trade.

Now lets talk garbage… I also suspect that there will be fewer scraps (of food stuffs) thrown out because people will be genuinely hungry and will learn to eat EVERYTHING. This will result in less ‘garbage’.

Having said that, let’s say you’re living in a metropolitan area (where most people live) and you live in suburbia without much land. Of the garbage and trash that you do produce, where will you dispose of it?

Even more important, what about human waste, as in toilet? If the plumbing (and sewer) stops ‘working’, what are you going to do? Where’s that going to go? Have you thought about it?

For a short term ‘event’, the sewers may still flow downhill. However you may want to have a good supply of heavy duty trash bags (for any and all waste). For a longer term SHTF, you will need longer term solutions. If you have the room and the land, you can more easily manage this (holes in the ground).

Look into composting (organic wastes). You can reuse this in your garden eventually.

Look into what it takes to build a do-it-yourself ‘out house’.
Okay, hopefully this got you to thinking about it… what’s your opinion?

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  • By Christian Gains, September 25, 2014 @ 00:02

    I MUST FIRST EXPLAIN that you SHOULD GO TO A PROFESSIONAL SEPTIC TANK placement Company, and get their advice.

    The below Article is based upon my experience, and the training that the Pros gave me, BUT!!!

    I’m NOT a PRO, so check with them…If I’ve missed ANYthing, they’ll correct it! DO NOT SIMPLY FOLLOW MY DIRECTIONS, (tho thoroughly EXACT as to what I learned), I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL, so my advice should ONLY be YOUR beginer’s learning step.

    From the late 1990’s to EARLY 2000’s, wifey & I lived on a 5.7 acre plot, (with 1/3 ridge land), in E. Tenn. (Seveirville). We bought the land RAW…5 ft. high grass, NOTHING else except rocks, a creek, and the Appalachian Ridge line, (as our back yard), et al.

    First thing we did was cut the grass, then set up our trailer, and THEN have a “natural septic” & “bleed lines” put in. It was done by a couple of professionals, but they were “MOUNTAIN MEN”, and therefore, taught me, step by step, what they did, and why.

    Amazingly, (tho it WILL be exhausting work), it’s VERY DOABLE by hand! The problems to solve are:


    #1] Constructing a “Septic Tank”, (which must be concrete), 10′ long, X 6′ wide, X 4′ deep. With 6″ thick walls & 8″ thick floor. {BEFORE BEGINNING THIS CONSTRUCTION, PLEASE REFER TO THE COUNSEL ON “SOIL TYPE” in the #6 job description below}

    #2] Get the TANK into position…THIS WILL TAKE SOME HEAVY LIFTERS! AND, is the most important & difficult part of the job!!!

    #3] The Septic tank HAS to be above the highest “bleeder line” — ditches — by at LEAST 20%, — going from the Septic’s drain spout, [bottom center of Tank], {with the Tank SLIGHTLY tilted [7%?] in the direction of the “bleeder lines” [“BLs].

    #4] The “BL”‘s have to have a gradual (20%) downward slant, from beginning (septic drain spout to end of the [BL] line…AND, must form a 3 ditch formation of a square “Z”, [with the BOTTOM horizontal “leg” [of the “Z”], coming out of the Septic, and the the TOP horizontal “leg” [of the “Z”], going away from the septic Tank. The “legs” should be at LEAST 25 yrds. long.(15 yrds. longer if possible). Then the “vertical backbone of the “Z” should be at least 50+ yrds.(50 yrds. longer if possible)

    #5] Also, the Septic Tank HAS GOT TO BE [at LEAST], 20% ABOVE the ENTIRE “BL” field…so, you MIGHT have to use the discarded dirt from the BL’s as a base to raise the Septic Tank above the lines.


    #6] Your “field” must also have some absorbent type of soil to “bleed” the toxic waste into, which will be able to pass on the waste into the natural process of regeneration.

    NOTE: RESEARCH IS NECESSARY — BEFORE EVER ATTEMPTING INSTALLING A SEPTIC — IT IS NECESSARY TO ASCERTAIN WHAT TYPE OF SOIL BASE YOUR YARD HAS!!!! DO THIS RESEARCH NOW!!!! (once TSHTF, and you’re dealing with TEOTWAWKI, you’ll not have the tech. capability, (nor professional counsel) available)! AND!

    A SEPTIC that hasn’t the soil absorption ratio necessary will simply “back up”, “clog up”, and endanger your home, family and neighborhood!!!!! THIS ARTICLE IS SIMPLY A “HINT” as to a method to better rid your area of waste products…BUT! NOT A PROFESSIONAL EVALUATION…DO YOUR OWN HOME WORK! It CAN work…IF done properly…

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